I am in the process of putting this page together.  Information is continuely being changed/added. If you have any questions about care and husbandry and I have not put it on this page yet, feel free to contact me and I'll see what I can do to help you.

 

    The information provided here was put together from a few different areas of education. First my personal hands on experience in working with Blood Pythons.  Second, discussions with other Blood Python keepers/breeders on genetics, physiology, husbandry, and everything in between! Third, education from many articles and published works on Python Bongersmai, Curtus, and Breitensteini.

   The information provided here is intended as a basic outline of the species, husbandry and care.

   I hope the information provided helps you with a great and healthy experience for you and your animal.

 

    First lets get familiar with the species.  The Blood Python is broken down into three different Species,  Curtus, Brongersmai, Breitensteini.

In years past these 3 Species were labeled as Python Curtus Curtus, Python Curtus Brongersmai, and Python Curtus Breitensteini.  Curtus Curtus being full Species with Brongersmai and Breitensteini labeled subspecies. In the early 2000's they each gained full Species status, and thus dropping the Curtus title for P. Brongersmai and P. Breitensteini. 

 

   Python Brongersmai is comman name Blood Python and covers most of Sumatra and Malaysia. There most commen areas are Central, Northern, Eastern Sumatra, and Central/Southern Malayasia.  With no reports of Blood Pythons occupying up into Tailand.  They also occupy some neighboring islands such as Bangka, islands through the Straight of Malacca, and Lingga.  All Easternly of Sumatra as Brongersmai specimens are not reported to cross the dividing mountain range running north to south through Sumatra.

    The Blood Python primarily inhabits forest ground, the giant palm feilds of Sumatra, flood plains and agricultured areas in Malaysia and Sumatra.  There very thick body mass helps them to float and navigate when seasonal floods flow into there habitat.

    Blood pythons are most commonly known for their amazing red and orange coloration.   Distinguishing colors, as they have not been observed in the other two Species. Their color is also expressed in varying shades of yellow and brown. Colors that the other two Species in the Taxon may express also.  Degrees of black pigmentation including silver, outline and blotch in patterns along the lateral sides of the snake.  

   Body sizes ranges from approximately 4' on the small side to 7' for larger specimens. They have a very impressive body mass for a snake of medium length, with adults reaching up to 30 & 35 pounds, but more commanly less than that.

 

                       

         P. Brongersmai

 

                                      

                                      Python Brongersmai

 

    Python Curtus common name Short-Tailed Python and Black 'Bloods'. They primarily inhabit Southern Sumatra and have also spread north along the Western coast and forest of the dividing mountian range between Western and Eastern Sumatra. 

    P. Curtus has a few varying color differences within the taxon, but are known for their black and silver color expression.  Some examples expressing an extremely dark overtone, while others stay lighter with age.  Both examples can express black, silver, and orange head coloration.  Lateral connections to the perpandicular rises in pattern are typical, with very noticable color differences expressed within the seperated dorsal and lateral areas.  

             

     When considering the biggest difference between Curtus and Breitensteini and/or Brongersmai in terms of physiology, P. Curtus has less than 165 ventral scales and the anterior pair of parietal scales connect but are not in broad contact with themselves and the midline suture.

 

                                    

                                     Python Curtus

   Python Breitensteini is common name Borneo Python, it was known also as a Short-Tailed Python but that definition has since been dropped and reserved for P. Curtus.  Borneo Pythons are from the Island province of Borneo, just east of Sumatra. Although spread throughout the island, there are locale specific regions that hold slightly different color expressions, such as Sarawak. 

These pythons rarely travel in and out of these areas due to mountians/rivers, so the specimens that inhabit a specific regions develop  their 'locale specific' color expression. 

   They have a somewhat neutral brown and tan coloration with black and silver accents.  Almost all P. Breitensteini lack the melamine producing the overall dark appearance of species like P. Curtus which posess this pigmentation. 

   Borneos average 4-5 feet in length and still retain a heavy amount of body weight.

  

 

                  

        P. Breitensteini               

 

Scalation on Breitensteini closely resembles Brongersmai in that they both have Anterior Parietal in broad contact with the midline suture, were this does not occur with Curtus.  Breitensteini almost always have one subocular scale over their eye and a percentage of granular scales between the eye and the supralabials.

                                     

 

 The most commen question asked from someone considering a Blood Python for a pet is "I've heard Bloods are mean, is that true?" For many years the majority of Blood Pythons available were through pet stores and wholesale dealers. Bloods that were farm raised and wild caught imports.  These snakes generally do not do well.  Many die in captivity from the stresses of importation, parasites, and feeding problems.  The ones that survive do not always have the nicest disposition, especially older wild caught imports.  They took on a perception of being mean snakes.  Which is partially true, do to the amount of wild caught snakes being flooded into the market. That didn't give the average snake hobbyist much of an option in Blood Pythons.

  With the ever growing community of Blood Python enthutheists,  captive bred and born Blood Pythons and Borneo Pythons are much more readily available.  The captive bred and born animals have a world of differene in attitude, feeding, overall health, and will do much better for any Blood Python keeper.  Buying from reputable breeders of captive bloods gives the purchuser a great asset of support from the breeder with any questions on health and husbandry.  It also supports the captive Blood Python market here, rather than the pet store importers from Sumatra!

  Many first time blood owners ask questions on disposition because they like the look of Blood Pythons but want a snake they can cuddle and watch t.v. with.  While some bloods are capable of this bonding time watching Animal Planet, most bloods do not always tolerate it.  Ball Pythons and Colubrids might be more well suited for this activtiy.  Blood Pythons I would consider an intermediate snake to own.  They are quite capable of being very nice snakes and don't mind a lot of handling.  But as a percentage across the board of bloods having long periods of handling time, they tend to become uncomfortable and can start thrashing around.  With there heavily displaced body mass, Blood Pythons need a lot of support to feel comfortable.   Bloods will usually become uneasy after a while sitting in one place with movement and activity passing in front of them.  So in general they can be a very nice snake to keep and handle, but not a snake that you carry around with you everywhere you go, they like there privacy also.

 Making Blood and Borneo Pythons a regular routine in your day can be a very exciting hobby.  These animals have a unique bonding with there  keepers.  They become familiar with who feeds them, who cleans there cage, and interacts with them.  Having a large or small collection you can tell the different personalities that develop with each animal.  They all respond and react in different ways, while some can be very vocal by huffing and puffing, others are just curious and meander there way out of the cage.  Growing from one blood to a few or even to 100, depends on time and resources.  The animals health such as fresh water, cleaning, available food, should never be comprismised for the desire to aquire more animals.

  Purchasing Bloods and Borneos as an investment with the hope of making a return from them doing well, breeding, sucessfully incubating eggs and finally making sales, can be a great experience.  Enjoyment can come from these snakes at any level.  Whether you enjoy keeping them for the pleasure of just having them or if you plan to experience breeding projects.  With the ever growing reptile community, trade shows, and internet sites, it makes it possible for anyone with the desire to produce animals, to buy, sell and trade them quite readily.

 

  The proper caging can be easily aquired, set-up and with a little commen sense your python will be a happy, healthy snake.  Babies should have a minimum of 40-50sq. inches, basically 4-5" by 10".  Keeping a hatchling in to big of a cage can cause stress for the animal as they do not feel safe and secure.  Stress in a snake is just the same as with other animals and humans.  Stress can cause the snake not want to eat and also make them susceptible to sickness and infection.  If a bigger enviroment is all that you have available such as a ten gallon aqaurium, then provide a hide spot for the snake to retreat to. 

                                            

                                             5" by 15" for juvenile providing 75sq. inches of space

 

  After a while of regular feedings your little guy is quickly turning into a bigger little guy, this means soon a bigger cage. The next size of caging for Blood Pythons reaching a year old should be a minimum of 180sq. inches, this is about the size of a ten gallon tank.  Remember this is the minimum size, judge the growth rate of your animal, if it needs a bigger cage with about 300sq. inches they will do well.  By this age the Blood Python is very well established and should have a great feeding response, and will not be affected with caging that is to big.  The pythons will enjoy the space and will use it. 

                                                 

                                                  12" by 18" for 2 year old Blood providing just over 200 sq. inches

 

After a 2-3 years Bloods are generally 3-6 pounds in weight and still gaining length.  They can be moved to a space about 2' by 4'. Here a Blood Python can live for most of its life.  If your animal is reaching up 6 feet in length and quite heavy, 20+ pounds, then bigger caging should be provided.

                                                 

                                                  18" by 36" cage for 3 year old female providing 4 1/2 sq. feet of space

 

   Substrate

   The best substate we have found to use for Blood Pythons is newspaper. A thick layer provides quick asorbtion from defacations and makes them easy to see and clean.  Bloods love to crawl through it and create there own hide spot and it assists very well with shedding.  Other substrates can include dust-free Aspen and cypress mulch.  Close attention should paid when using a shredded substrate as it may become lodged in there mouths and could cause infection.  Regular changeouts of the bedding should be practiced as it will dirty much quicker than it looks. 

 

   Fresh water is very important to the heath of these animals.  Blood Pythons drink a lot of water and frequently.  Fresh water should be provided every few days and never hesitate to scrub the bowl with mild soap or a reptile friendly cleaner whenever necessary.  Occansional baths will be much appreciated by your Blood Python.  Soak with the water level no higher than half the hieght of the animal.  Juveniles should only get about a 1/4-1/2" of water, while sub-adults and adults will get from 1-3 inches.

 

  Temperature 

  The right temperatures are critical for a healthy snake to remain free from sickness and infection.  Proper temps and humidity induce good sheds and stimulate breeding.  I have found that my Blood Pythons do best at an average temp of 80-82 degrees.  This temperature can flucuate between 78-85 degrees and your python will do well.  A warm spot for your animal may be provided but is not required for there well-being.  Generally used if your having trouble maintaining good ambient air temps.  The warmspot should be between 85-90 degrees.

 

  Humidity 

  The average percentage of humidity that works well for bloods is around 60%.  At this percent they shed well and are less prone to respitory infections.  Having to high and to low of humidity in the cage can be very unhealthy for the animal.   Both extremes can respitory infections and difficulty with breathing.  Humidity to low does not allow the snake to shed properly.  Sheds can become retained and be difficult to remove.  To high of humidity can cause respitory illness and unsanitary conditions. 

    Humidity and temperature can be monitered easily by a number of options offered by pet supply stores.  Daily water spraying and adjusting a cover over the lid/screen aids in maintaining good humidity. 

 

 Juvenile Blood Pythons can readily start feeding on either mouse hoppers or rat pinks.  Pythons in general do well starting on rats.  The PH level in the milk of the rat pink or pup does not have the harmful effects that can cause complications in Boa Constrictors.   If starting with rat pinks, a short period of time may be spent with each animal to intice them to feed.  The rat pink usually does not create enough movement to envoke a response from the baby snake.  Use a pair of feeding tongs and wiggle the prey in front of the snake.  Do not bump the prey into the snout of the snake and after a few minutes they usually take the bait.  A mouse hopper left in with a newborn bloods at night is 99% of the time snatched up within an hour or so.  If starting with mice, after a handful of meals they will readily switch to rat fuzzies, as they will become aggressive little feeders.

  Try maintain the appropriate size meal throughout the growth of your Blood Python.  Meals do not have to be the same size as the girth of the snake as this tends to be the rule of thumd with other species.  Blood Pythons have a slower metabolism than most python species and will do very well on slightly smaller meals, less often. 

 

 Handling -